Garden Drainage

garden drainage (2)

When I was in college we had one lecturer who wasn’t a pure academic. He was. But he wasn’t. But he was a total legend of a horticultural brain. In that, what I’m getting is if you are gonna teach me business studies, I’d like to think that you failed as well as succeeded in the business you started and then decided you’d like to take up a teaching post.

As versus being top of your class and morphing from a life time of A1 studentry direct to teaching.

He was the type of guy who told us to stand at a gate and figure out, from there what the drainage was like and without entering that field would we recommend we buy it, with our money in order to make a living from it. And then, he’d proceed to the science bit.

Four years studying horticulture in mind, one learns also logically then that fields with rushes in them sell slightly cheaper for good reason and more you begin to look at the peripheral factors [topographical or a garden in Holland for example] as part of the solution.

More than that, in a domestic garden, I know by sight, soil type, a quick hole dig (a help) and also very importantly by smell or scent – think damp socks – just what is going on.

Over the years there are gigs that I may not have got that I had provided costs for (note: there will always be a cheaper price.) because I was a little more costly in comparison. That bit I don’t mind so much, but in insuring a garden drains properly there is only one way to do it. And I will not put my name to something that ends up as a pilius of shiteious, to use the Latin term; sometimes known as the I would like a 10 grand garden for the price of 2; or the not so great a gardener also a builder syndrome.

On a mild side note: if you had a bad boy bob the builder (no offence to the builders I work with to this day) who provided you with substandard sub soil complete with concrete blocks and empty paint bucket, instead of screened top soil – there’s no point in blaming the seed company because your lawn seed did not germinate there.

And back to it and to explain a little more indepth, installing drainage into a domestic garden should be costed equationally. And by way of example – note hypothetical example – the process [and therefore the associated costs] should run a lot like so:

  • Your average garden measures 8 metres long x 6 metres wide.
  • Drainage pipes are dropped at 1.5 metre intervals
  • This allows 0.75 of a centre point between each pipe in which to drain
  • The pipes run north – south or length ways.
  • This equates to 6 pipes.
  • They must all meet into one pipe along the bottom of the garden
  • Which must run into a sump or stone pit – or storm drain
  • The soil that is dug out into which the pipe is submerged is brutal
  • You know this. It was the cause of the trouble in the first place
  • It therefore has to be removed.
  • In the remaining void has to go pipe and pebble.
  • On top of the soil should go a new lawn
  • The lawn can not be laid/ sown in/ on the existing soil
  • As it is brutal. We have been here before.
  • Therefore new soil/ compost is required.
  • As is grass seed. Or preferably rolled turf.
  • All of the calculations so far are length x width x height
  • Or length x width. In short.
  • Which therefore calculates price, equationally.

Whatever about getting a price that is maybe 50 euro cheaper, the only way to reduce ones cost price by half approximately, is to install half the amount of pipes ? Which therefore reduces materials, the in and out and also the man hour units, by half.

Further reading:

garden drainage (1)

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